Food

This place has been on my to-do list ever since I started this blog and was periodically suggested by faithful commenters (thanks Schweis and Mr. Jayhok). When I drove up and got a good look at Kitty's in all its humble glory I immediately wondered why it had taken me so damn long. After all, their pork tenderloin sandwich has a reputation as lofty as any foodstuff in town.

Founded by Paul and Kitty Kawakami, a Japanese-American couple who were interned out west during World War II and summarily shipped against their will to Kansas City afterwards, Kitty's has been in business since 1951 which, given its small size and location is pretty incredible. Located east of Martini Corner on 31st street in a somewhat run-down stretch of road full of abandoned storefronts Kitty's still does a nice business serving cheap eats to working folks, neighborhood characters and destination diners.



The gentleman who was behind the counter on my recent visit managed to joke and chat with customers, take money, and prepare all the food by himself. There probably isn't room for more than a couple people back there anyway. The restaurant's namesake retired in the late 1980s and died in 2003 but apparently her batter recipe is what keeps the delicious fried menu items so popular.

Kitty's isn't much to look at on the inside, a small lunch counter and a handful of stools around a shelf are all the seating available.



You should be fine during off-hours but I'd plan on getting lunch to-go. You can certainly call ahead with an order as well. A couple of Buddha statues and good-fortune cats reflect the Cafe's continuing management by Asians but the menu is sheer Americana: Burgers, Catfish, Grilled Cheese, Egg sandwiches and of course the vaunted pork loin ($4.90).

As opposed to the pork tenderloin's typical preparation, the one at Kitty's is comprised of three small breaded cutlets stacked on a rather unremarkable hamburger bun with lettuce, tomato, pickles and a glorious spicy red sauce.



This is a darn near perfect sandwich--spicy, easy to eat, a good value, and fantastically crunchy. I can see what the fuss is about because this is some seriously good batter, reminiscent of tempura. Perhaps a greater revelation was the catfish sandwich ($5.30), which gets the same treatment and may in fact be superior to the pork loin because the fish flavor is a little more prominent.



The fries and tator tots are typical frozen food service variety but still make a nice complement to their sandwiches. Kitty's also has eggs, bacon, toast and sausage for those seeking that lesser meal, breakfast.

What Kitty's lacks in class in makes up for in history. I love the fact that it has been around for nearly 60 years in a rather unassuming part of town. It's survival is no doubt due to the great pork loin sandwich which the owner will proudly tell you was mentioned in the New York Times in 1987. Next time you are tooling around midtown, visiting Costco or hitting up Martini Corner pay Kitty's a visit.



Further reading:

Mary Sanchez, "Cafe's history tells of struggle Kitty's restaurant holds memories reflecting owners and their stories." Kansas City Star Dec. 8, 1997. Link for Johnson County Library users. Link for Kansas City Public Library users.

Jonathan Probber, "Eating in Kansas City: Ultimate Un-Diet." New York Times. Jan. 14, 1987

This little stretch of Metcalf in Overland Park is home to a handful of businesses that anchored the small downtown area in the late 1950's and 60's. Villa Capri and John's Space Age Donuts share a building on the west side of the street, Mac's service station and the White Haven Motor Lodge across the way complete a sketchy picture of what Overland Park was like in those heady days of early suburbanization. Metcalf Avenue grew of course, but was largely spared the crass overbuilding of blocks south, with the notable exception of a huge Turtle Wax Car Wash which nearly obliterates Villa Capri and John's from the vision of passing motorists.



In the intervening decades, all these business have held on due to a steady business of old-timers, regulars and nostalgia enthusiasts, but sadly seem destined to fade away. Indeed, last week word came down that the White Haven had closed and would be auctioning its contents piecemeal. John's Space Age still does a good business, as last month's visit demonstrated to me but Dunkin' Donuts seems poised for a full-fledged assault as they creep into the metro.

I did not plan on liking the food at Villa Capri. Most things I read online and heard from people prepared me for cheap ingredients, bad sauce and crazy old people. Well, here's the thing: the food is pretty decent.

Don't come to Villa Capri expecting the world. But for less than the price of a Quizno's sub you can get a home-cooked plate of lasagna with a giant homemade meatball. What can you get for $4.95 any more that isn't fast food?



The salads are rather dismal affairs with not much going on apart from iceberg lettuce.



But the salad dressing is very tasty, despite the fact that it is too sweet. It is clearly homemade since you can see the herbs and pieces of shallot sprinkled liberally throughout.

I've also eaten a highly serviceable chicken parmesan sandwich ($6.85) there. It was made with a hand-breaded chicken breast but came on a roll that was a little too fluffy and chewy. I like a little more crust on my bread.



The potato chips that come with sandwiches are familiar to me. They come from the generic, food service bulk bags and are the absolute cheapest available. They are greasy, mealy and awful. The pickle was also terrible and cheap. It is very interesting how a restaurant can take the time to prepare homemade salad dressing but skimp on details like these. It speaks volumes about the way restaurants have been run in previous years. Thankfully we have come to be properly wary of packaged and processed foods, and restaurants by and large have taken notice.

Have I mentioned the decor? Behold Villa Capri in all its glory:







This is the point at which we can stop taking Villa Capri seriously and venture bravely into the world of kitsch. And this is true kitsch because the owners obviously think that Christmas lights, murals, plastic grapevines and cheesy checked tablecloths are genuinely nice atmospheric elements for the interior of a restaurant. And thank god they do because I find it a delightful ambiance in which to enjoy lunch. While many Italian restaurants focus on intimate, dark interior spaces, Villa Capri is more like a happy carnival. And the place really gets very nice light as well. Some picky people seem to mistake the decor for uncleanliness but I have to say that it did not strike me that way at all. Just because the interior hasn't changed in 50 years doesn't mean the place hasn't been cleaned.

The people who run this joint are nice enough, but they are not ass-kissers. Anyone who runs a place like Villa Capri really doesn't care what you think about the food or the service, they get by on knowing pretty much everyone who eats there. When not actively waiting on tables, the waitress visits with people, occasionally even sitting down at a table with someone for a chat. This is both charming and irritating. I like some semblance of professionalism and it fees strangely like I'm interrupting when I walk in to find the staff sitting down and chatting. But they have been operating for better than 50 years and have a right to rest on their laurels. I like that Villa Capri holds special memories for people who grew up in Overland Park and serves as a kind of social center for Overland Parkers to catch up.

No, this is not great Italian food, but it is fairly priced and tastes good.

I think this place kind of sucks, but then again, I didn't grow up in Kansas City. When people talk about Taco Via, they talk about growing up in the 80s and the appeal of a more naive and happy time. Nostalgia is so completely powerful that I cannot argue with these people. Read this meditation on Taco Via and the heyday of fast food taco shops and see if you don't agree. Sure, the phenomenon resulted in my least favorite chain restaurant of all time, Taco Bell, but we had some laughs along the way.



There are no fewer than four Taco Via groups on Facebook. The Wall posts are exclamation point-ridden nuggets of pure yearning for childhood and blind allegiance to a geographic region through its own quirky local business.

I would guess that this is a family operated spot. Two grumpy middle aged white women run the registers, a middle aged white guy and a teenage white boy put the food together and an old white lady with a limp buses tables. No attractive people work or eat here. Of course there is nothing Mexican about Taco Via. I suspect that among its enthusiasts, this is part of the charm.

Order at the counter. The menu is a little crazy, I can't really process it every time I eat there because it is so large, varied and full of colorful pictures that compete for your attention. There is a taco burger, which you would have to pay me to eat. Of course burritos, tacos and the like abound. They also have an ongoing lunch special: a taco, sancho and nacho for 6.95, which includes a drink. What's a sancho, you ask?



Yeah, it's pretty much indistinguishable from Taco Bell's "soft taco" except that it is about 3 times as large. It also tastes like nothing. The taco meat is mushy and finely ground, with only the subtlest of seasoning. Add some iceberg lettuce, underripe tomatoes and shredded yellow cheese and you are in business. Tacos get the same treatment but are much more palatable than the dreaded sancho.



Apply the taco sauce, available from a pump container on the counter, very liberally. The sauce helps foster a sensation somewhat similar to "flavor," but not quite as pleasant.

The nachos are funny little things, not nachos as we have come to know them. At Taco Via a nacho is essentially a single tostada shell with melted cheese and a little taco sauce on it. If you like, they will add some chopped canned jalapeño peppers which make a world of difference, in a good way.



You get your drink with your food, not before. I can only assume that they are trying to prevent free refills by controlling the flow of beverages, but I really don't know why. During the lunch rush you can wait a few minutes for your food to arrive so I would appreciate being able to sip a drink.

There are many more things on the menu, but I think it's safe to say that they are all variations on a theme. Also, I really don't feel like making multiple visits in order to sample all the wacky offerings. I'm getting old and my colorectal health is a concern.

There used to be many more Taco Via locations in the metro, but now there are only three: this Overland Park location, one in Lee's Summit and one in Olathe. I heard from a reliable source that the owners of the chain required franchisees to pipe Christian music throughout their restaurants, close on Sundays and otherwise subscribe to a religious point of view in their business operations. A short-lived Gardner location is reputed to have used tray-liners with the 10 Commandments printed on them.

Take a look at the founders. Do you have a hard time believing that these people were hyper-religious nutjobs?



A few years back, several locations abruptly left the Taco Via family and changed names. This was the case at the old 75th and Metcalf location (where a KFC is now) and the still-operating Taco Uno in Shawnee. A 2006 article from the Shawnee Dispatch only cites "differences of opinion" as the reason for Taco Uno leaving the Via franchise, so I'd love to hear if this uber-Christian story is true. There is no such discernible activity at the 95th street Taco Via. In fact the location is not even listed on the Taco Via website.

The restaurant critics gave a nice shout-out to Edokko on KCUR's Walt Bodine show a few weeks ago. I was glad this place was on their radar because I had eaten there back in March and found it to serve among the best sushi in town.



Edokko is situated in a small strip mall on Hauser Ct. just off 87th street in Lenexa. It sits next door to KC Grill & Kabob which itself offers a very fine Middle Eastern lunch buffet. Inside the entrance is a little lobby with some large bamboo and a delightful fish pond. The little speaker on top issues a barely audible greeting when you walk in or out.





Sushi is a great option for lunchers venturing out on their own. You can always count on the presence of a sushi bar where you can join other solo diners. The bar also offers the opportunity to watch the sushi chef practice his craft; some chefs (the gentleman at Jun's comes to mind) are veritably chatty fellows who are more than happy to discuss the finer points of sushi-making.

Edokko is very tastefully decorated, anchored by an 18-seat granite sushi bar with stone accents.


A series of elevated wooden booths run along two walls above the central dining area. The booths are sleek and modern with appealing earth-toned cushions.



Like most better sushi places, prices run a little higher than the average lunch excursion. The sushi special runs $10.95 and includes 6 pieces, a California roll and miso soup.





This is definitely a crowd-pleasing special as there are no "weird" choices, and a California roll is about as safe as you can get. But this was great sushi, absolutely creamy, fresh tasting and delightful. The nigiri were on the large side as well.

I went back recently and wanted to check out something else from their lunch menu (PDF). I opted for Yaki Udon, a dish of thick noodles mixed with chicken, snap peas, egg, lettuce, carrots, mushrooms and topped with sesame seeds and slivers of dried seaweed. Delicious. I strongly suspect that they make they own udon noodles but I haven't eaten them a lot. I just have a hard time believing that a dried noodle could taste this tender and fresh. I asked the server but she had no idea how they were prepared, and indeed seemed clueless as to what the cooks did back there. That's some serious division of labor.



Nonetheless, I appreciated the otherwise great service both at a booth and at the sushi bar during each visit. When I visited shortly after they opened, the owner chatted with me briefly, asking how I heard about Edokko, whether I liked the food and encouraging me to come back. She seemed like a nice lady and I felt good about patronizing the place. You will too, assuming you want to eat in Lenexa.

Oh, and I'm pretty sure they have karaoke.

Cozy's is an interesting little joint that recently set up shop on 75th near Metcalf across from Fritz's Chili.



While the signage on the building itself is prominent, there is nothing by the street to indicate a restaurant is there, so it may be easy to miss unless you happen to notice it. Look for the Roth Jeweler sign; Cozy's is right next door. The most recent inhabitant of the building was a Kwik-E-Mart type of place but I think it lay vacant a little while before Cozy's moved in.

To get the complaints out of the way, the atmosphere is probably the worst part of this place. It is certainly new and clean-looking, as it has undoubtedly been significantly rehabbed. But newness works against the implied...uh, coziness of the joint. Institutional carpeting, drop ceilings and generic restaurant furniture create an environment that feels like lunching in the lobby of a doctor's office.





Of course, your doctor doesn't have food like this. While I cannot vouch for everything on the menu, I will say that the specials are often pretty intriguing. I think the owner puts a lot of care into them since there are several every day and everything I've had has been good. The lasagna I sampled on my last visit was a huge slab of the stuff, filled with creamy ricotta and spinach. It was obviously homemade and very delicious. This dish wasn't dressed up with fancy ingredients, rather it was a very fine take on a traditional dish.



Other specials that day included ravioli with sausage, pork kebabs, and a tuna salad sandwich. So it is clear that Cozy's is not your typical greasy spoon. The culinary repertoire here is pretty varied, though the menu itself is not vast in size.

There are standards like ham and cheese sandwiches and hamburgers ($2.39 for a single) but also offerings with a variety of culinary influences. You can order several different panini grilled sandwiches ($5.49-7.69) including a muffaletta, essentially an sub of Italian meats and olive tapenade. Being the ever health-conscious consumer, I have not tried it, but plan to do so at some point. I have eaten the so-called "European Sandwich" which consists of cheese, butter, tomato, basil and honey. Yeah, that's not very healthy either, is it? But I enjoyed it as a change of pace from ubiquitous meat pockets, and a vegetarian one at that.



That soup you see above is a homemade chicken, rice and vegetable soup. The owner instructed me to use salt since she does not like to over-season her soups. I can't tell you what a rare and delightful trait this is. At a more highbrow place, I would feel differently, but at Cozy's I preferred the light touch. And yes, I did put a pinch of salt in the soup.

Cozy's makes a solid burger too, although the Sysco frozen fries aren't doing them any favors.



This food is simple but well-prepared. It may not win any culinary awards but I'll wager you will never be disappointed with what you order.

The place appears to be popular with older folks who admittedly are over-represented in this part of the county. Typically the owner waits tables and otherwise runs the show in the front of the house. She is quite friendly and good with people. She recognized me from a previous visit, even remembering the day of the week I was there. Those are what one calls "people-skills." One time a guy sitting behind me didn't eat all of his soup and she practically insisted on bringing him a salad instead (which he insistently declined). Nonetheless little touches like these build loyal customers.

Strangely enough, Cozy's has a jukebox over in the corner. I haven't perused its offerings but once every 10 minutes or so it springs to life with a country tune or so. I heard "The Ballad of Jed Clampett" there one time, followed by someone I can only assume was Michael Buble. On my last visit, the juke was on continuously which vastly improved the sedate ambiance. I hope they keep it up.

Cozy's fills a niche in this corner of Overland Park as an affordable lunch spot (though it is open for all 3 meals), with food that isn't boring and nice people running the show. I love how it feels like a neighborhood joint in one of the most offputtingly suburban intersections in the metropolitan area.

Learn more:

Charles Ferruzza reviews Cozy's in the Pitch

I'll tread lightly here; God knows I don't want to stir up the legions of opinionated white guys who staunchly argue about barbecue in various public forums around town. Regardless, Gates seems to have a lot of lovers and haters. I think people genuinely appreciate how long it has been around and how much Ollie Gates does in the community, but like so much else in Kansas City the place doesn't hold up under harsh scrutiny.



Like most barbecue joints, Gates does some things better than others. People swear by the burnt ends and they are widely considered a close second to LC's in terms of taste. I found the burnt ends to be incredibly disappointing. I don't think they were cooked properly because the taste of raw fat globules permeated the sandwich, rather than the delightful rendered fat flavor of LC's burnt ends. With the recent news that LC's has been shut down by the health department, we can only hope it comes back even better than before, sans rodents.





Compare the admittedly crappy photos above to these uploaded on flickr two years ago. It's not even close. A lack of consistency plagues both Gates and Bryant's in recent years, which may account for the meteoric rise in esteem for Oklahoma Joe's and Jack Stack, which are extremely reliable.

I am a huge fan of the beef at Gates. Again, I think that LC's has the slight edge here but it's still tender, smoky and full of rich beefy goodness. It is well-accompanied by that glorious Gates original barbecue sauce. Like many of the world's best food, Gates beef brisket tastes even better cold the next day. That's why I often get the large sandwich, which is pretty tough for most folks to put away in one sitting.



At lunch, Gates offers a pretty good deal: a small-ish sandwich on a bun with fries for something like $6.50. You just order the meat of your choice "on bun" and the fries are assumed. You can also get it on loaf bread if you want, you will just have to utter the preposterous order "beef on bun on bread." The sandwich is an appropriate size for lunch though I found the sliced pork too dry. I heartily recommend Arthur Bryant's for all of your sliced pork needs.



People love Gates' fries. They actually have pleasing crunch and a decent potato flavor but are a little too processed tasting for my palate. A big plate of fries will also cost you something like $3.75 which seems a little steep.

I think Gates' sauce is the best in town, an assertion I'm relatively confident in, despite the fact that I have not been to every single BBQ joint in the metro. They have something like 4 different kinds but I like the original the best. Most of them taste very similar in my humble opinion. An employee working the dining rooms recommended the sweet and mild sauce for french fries.
I also like the ribs a great deal, though I haven't had them in a couple years. They don't overcook their ribs like many places in town do. The meat does not fall of the bone in stringy clumps which I, for one, appreciate. Like bacon, ribs should not be cooked to death.

This particular Gates location is the newest I believe, and is kind of a flagship location due to its proximity to the business headquarters across the intersection. I'll never fully understand the aesthetic of the Gates brand. The man with the cane depicted on Gates' signs calls to mind some sort of turn of the century dandy, or Louis Armstrong's "Struttin' with some Barbecue."
This location is laid out like an old-timey train station which sounds cool in theory but is kind of offputting. Rather than one large dining area, it is split into two small-ish, dark rooms with little fancy entrance doors and old photos on the wall.





While attractive enough a space, it sort of looks like someone's well-heeled grandmother decorated it. The center of the train station is a little island fashioned after a ticket window. It is perpetually un-staffed but it is theoretically where one obtains cocktails. But I have never seen anyone having mixed drinks at Gates.

The ordering process is a disaster. Shrieks of "Hi may I help you?" are ostensibly an invitation for you to place your order verbally but there is no guarantee that anyone is actually listening. Indeed they holler it out whether they are facing you or not, often in the middle of a conversation with another diner. It doesn't really matter, because by the time you get to the end of the line to pay, they won't remember what you ordered anyway.



I have been here a lot, and never once has my food been waiting for me at the register. Not once. The ladies behind the line who all are trained to adopt the creepy affectation of referring to each other as "Miss Jones" or " Miss Fredericks" or whatever, are constantly chattering among themselves and the worn down looking guys in back who actually assemble the food. If I was a betting man, I'd wager most of Gates service problems relate to the cooks not paying any goddamn attention, but that's just a theory. As you wait to pay, another woman asks you if you want "drinks, sides, fries or pies." I think this is the lowest person on the employee totem pole but they are usually the most efficient.

At lunch it is not unusual to spend 10 or 15 minutes in line. You will spend that time experiencing a rich mixture of mild annoyance, uneasiness and excitement, but you won't be bored. Just make sure you get what you ordered. If they screw something up, they will get it right and run it out to your table.
A lot of people mistake the service shenanigans as unfriendliness or rudeness.Nothing could be farther from the truth. When interacting with individual employees at Gates I have found them uniformly helpful, open and even funny. If they seem exasperated, just remember that you don't have to work in that crazy house of a kitchen. Chill out and wait for your barbecue.
Now it's time for you all to disagree with me.

photo by Adam Kuban.

Hayes Hamburger & Chili is a quaint, sedate and very clean little hamburger shack up at Antioch and Vivion road in the northland. It bears a ton of obvious resemblances to Town Topic. Like that other Kansas City institution, Hayes is very small, open 24 hours, has been around a long time (since 1955), has always been a family business, and specializes in little crumbly, griddle-fried burgers topped with grilled onions.



At Town Topic the woman behind the counter typically asks if you want onions, at Hayes they just load 'em up. I like ballsy policies like this--the onions are grilled brown and have a strong flavor that many folks won't care for. If you don't like them the onus is on you to order your burger without.

The burger itself is fairly tasty. You will need to order a double or triple if you want a sandwich of any substance. The photo above is a double patty, sufficiently smooshed together on the grill as to resemble a single patty. Next time, a triple for me. And nope, no lettuce, tomato or other vegetable matter. The onion rings and fries are both pretty good but are probably the least interesting fried delicacies on a menu that includes fried cauliflower (Attn: Bull E. Vard), mushrooms and cheese sticks. The menu here is unbelievable huge considering how small the whole place is. As the name implies, food offerings focus on hamburgers and chili and various permutations therein.



I like chili well enough but I don't eat it at restaurants very often (I'm the same way with soup). So I didn't order it. As I sit here writing this, I wish I had. Perhaps some helpful person will leave a comment below with his/her impression of the chili.

The vibe in here is very interesting and quite a bit different than Town Topic. The staff at Hayes (I believe often Mr. Hayes himself) are sparing with words and very hard-working. I think people mistake this for gruffness or an "attitude," but it really just seems to be a necessary trait for working in such close proximity to human beings all day (and all night). Personally I don't need every employee at every restaurant I visit kissing my ass and thanking me profusely for patronizing their goddamn restaurant. The folks at Hayes let the food speak for itself.

This place is also impeccably clean, which can't be easy in an older restaurant building. The beautiful front windows were spotless, the counters and walls were shiny and the griddle was crystal clean and free of extraneous grease and food bits.



Hayes is a place that you should visit on your own, or with one other person. More people than that, and you should skip it. As far as I could tell, all six booths were 2-seaters. The counter has stools for maybe 10 people. There is no table service. When you arrive and sit down, you simply shout your order to the cook from your sea when he's ready. The menu is posted on the wall and can probably be seen from any seat in the house. I suppose you could also walk up to the counter and order like a respectable person but it's really not necessary.

Everything is prepared right before your very eyes. Frankly some aspects of food service are better suited to the back of the house, for instance the diarrheic transfer of ketchup from one nearly-empty squeeze bottle to another, but that's not really an option here. The food arrives steaming and hot, seconds from completion on the grill. There are few frills but that's okay with me.



I enjoyed my meal, as well as the crisp fountain soda that came in a cup chock-full of crushed ice. It's really the best thing ever. Also Hayes has a full breakfast menu here which is offered 24 hours a day. It is a cash-only establishment so leave the plastic at home.

I threw together a few lists of notable happenings in the Kansas City culinary universe in an effort to articulate everything I have absorbed via Facebook, Twitter, Blog posts and comments over the last 12 months. Let me know if I have missed anything or more importantly, if you disagree with any of the subjective offerings below. Without further ado:

Notable Anniversaries:

The Golden Ox (60 years): I have a real soft spot for this old school west bottoms steakhouse.

Anthony's (30 years): Speaking of old school. Jeez. Don't miss the roving crooner who lurks around the bar with a wireless mic on weekends.

The Brick (10 years): I have tremendous respect for the Brick. Good food, good music and a wonderful staff.

Gone too Soon:
The economy and other factors claimed more than a few restaurants this past year. While not an exhaustive list, these places will be especially missed.

New York Bakery & Delicatessen: A tragedy. KC isn't the same without the giant Reuben, a staple at this venerable institution.

Mike's Tavern: This Rockhurst / UMKC drinkery opened its doors in 1965 and held a lot of special memories for folks who frequented it over the years.

El Cipote: This great Central American spot seemed ill-fitted to its Leawood strip mall location.

Matchstick BBQ: Wonderful sauce and expertly smoked meats.

Pangea: This favorite 39th street lunch spot closed at the end of 2008 and was probably not properly mourned.

River Dogs: This riverside hot dog shack took KC by storm over the summer, but disappeared just as it became popular.

Delaware Cafe: Now replaced by the Farmhouse, the River Market nonetheless misses this friendly, unpretentious cafe.

Adam's Rib BBQ: Overland Parkers were really excited about Adam's Rib, but the cost of renovation proved too much for the owner.

Rice & Beans Cafe: This tiny Latin American cafe was a regular stop for many KCK residents until its mysterious demise.

Good riddance:
Baby Jesus smiles every time a mediocre chain restaurant closes.

Cleat'z Sports Bar & Grill, Legends

Chili's, Westport

McAlister's Deli, Ward Parkway


Risen from the Ashes:
We counted them out, but new ownership breathed life back into two Kansas City institutions this year.

The Majestic Steakhouse

The Phoenix restaurant and jazz club


Mysterious and Questionable status:
Currently closed. No idea whether they will open again. Mike's Tavern was on this list until a few days ago.

Hereford House: Was closed all of 2009 after a still-unresolved arson gutted the place.

Yummo: Depending on who you talk to, the Power & Light district's frozen yogurt shop is either closed for the cold weather months, or gone for good.


Moving On Up:
These places picked up and moved to bigger and better spaces in 2009.

Lutfi's Fried Fish opened up a nice soul food buffet in the Landing Mall

Cafe Trio moved from 3535 Broadway to the old Frondizi's space at 4558 Main street.

Succotash briefly closed and moved from the City Market to 26th and Holmes.

Niecie's recently opened its long-awaited space at Meyer and Troost, moving from its Prospect St. location.


Biggest Question for 2010

Will the arrival of Dunkin' Donuts put any of our fine local donut shops out of business?

I first heard about Georgetown Pharmacy from the Pitch's Fat City blog a while back. I recall Charles Ferruzza giving it a brief shoutout but for the life of me I cannot locate the post on the site. For anyone who has tried to search for anything on the Pitch's Web site, you are familiar with this problem. Nonetheless I did find the piece in which former Fat City blogger Owen Morris claims Georgetown Pharmacy has the 6th best milkshake in town earlier this summer.

Always intrigued by the entire notion of soda fountains, I decided to pay a visit recently. Heading up Merriam Drive I blew right by the place, a long, low nondescript brick building next to an auto repair shop.

This is not a pharmacy in the Walgreens or CVS sense of the word. While a genuine drug-dispensary, this place also specializes in medical supplies like wheelchairs, oxygen tanks, colostomy bags, compression stockings and male impotence pumps. No toys, cigarettes, celebrity magazines or lawn furniture. There is however a small display of 15 year old greeting cards.

At the back of the pharmacy is the entrance to the soda fountain, a curious little space that bears almost no resemblance to the drug store counters of yore.

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The preponderance of blond wood, the laminate countertops and the presence of mass produced Coca-Cola paraphernalia modeled after old advertisements belie the claim that they have "re-created an old time soda fountain" (from their website). While there are a handful of chrome bar stools, the sitting area looks like a corporate breakroom or the waiting area of a doctor's office. Indeed the entire space seems to have been decorated with items procured from the TJ Maxx housewares section.

At the stroke of 12 noon there were two lone customers in the joint. This place was not bustling, it was barely moving. A teenage girl stood attentively but meekly behind the counter. The sheer stillness of the room was punctuated only by some canned 60's hits subtly piped in on an overhead speaker. While there, I was treated to the Beach Boys, Beatles, Chuck Berry and an inexplicable cover of "You are my Sunshine" by Anne Murray.

A couple of dry-erase boards on the wall display all of their menu items. They offer a dizzying array of old school soda fountain drinks like phosphates, malts, shakes and egg creams. The food menu is more of an afterthought: burgers, brats, hot dogs, chicken salad.



I ordered a cheeseburger and was somewhat surprised to see the girl fetch a frozen patty from the back room and walk it out to a small patio beyond the side entrance. There she put the burger on a small gas grill and came back to make my chocolate malt.



While I'm no aficionado, the malt didn't really float my boat. It tasted pretty good, but there were some large lumps of semi-solid ice cream in the glass in addition to streaks of dry malt powder. It simply was not blended sufficiently. The portion was hefty, but it should be for $4.50.

The girl made another trip or two out to the grill, finally bringing back the burger. She then asked me what I wanted on it. Then she took it to the back room for 5 minutes applying lettuce, tomatoes and pickles. Realizing there was no ketchup on the table, I asked for some and was treated to a couple of Hunt's packets. This will shock you, but the burger was pretty awful. The already suspect frozen patty had been cooked to death and wasn't improved by the cheap grocery store bun or the paper plate.



Frozen patties just don't taste good, people. They have a rubbery consistency and almost nonexistent flavor. This was basically the kind of burger you get at a high school football game. Not gross, but not that good.

I can't really explain this business. Clearly the pharmacy side of things is successful enough. No doubt the owners are justifiably excited about having a working soda fountain allied with their business. Unfortunately, the atmosphere is just plain odd. It's not genuine retro, not even mock-retro but rather some sterile approximation of grandma's kitchen. While clean and spacious, it's not a comfortable place to hang out. I can see how it would be nice to stop by and grab a milkshake or ice cream cone on a hot weekend day. Indeed I think it is an asset to the neighborhood because of that fact.

This place doesn't need to do lunch. Apparently they don't even have a working stovetop or grill, so why are they trying to make burgers and brats? There really is very little thought evident in the whole food enterprise and I can't recommend it, particularly when there are better places like Pollo Loco, Grandstand and El Pulgarcito so close by.

This great recipe comes from the July 2008 magazine (RIP). This recipe is simple to prepare and quick to make. What did we ever do before rotisserie chickens? Chicken Tostadas 1 medium white onion1 lb. tomatoes. quartered2 large garlic cloves1 or 2 fresh Serrano chiles, stemmed1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided3 cups shredded iceberg lettuce1/2 cup chopped cilantro, divided1 Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com1

This recipe came from the Oct/Nov 2009 Cooking Pleasures magazine. The recipe was supposed to be baked in an 11 inch tart pan, but I did not want to make a crust and forgot to buy one of the refrigerated ones. So I grabbed a frozen puff pastry sheet from the freezer and adapted the recipe to fit. It turned out great and tasted wonderful. Easy company worthy dessert.Apple Tart with Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com0

This is one of those recipes that we always ask mom to prepare at holiday time. Very simple to make and so good to eat.Creamy Cornbread1 can cream corn1 can whole corn1/2 cup butter, melted3 eggs1 box Jiffy Cornbread MixCombine all ingredients in a bowl. Pour into greased baking dish and bake 55-65 minutes at 350 degrees.Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com0

This is another one of mom's cheese ball recipes. She has served this at holiday gatherings for ever.Jan's Original Cheese Ball2 8-oz. packages cream cheese, softened1 small can crushed pineapple, well drained1/2 cup finely chopped green pepper1/4 cup chopped onion1/2 tsp. garlic powder1 cup chopped pecansMix first 5 ingredients and roll into a ball. Roll in chopped nuts and serve with crackers.Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com0

I have been going through my piles of recipes and trying to get the ones posted that I have tried. This is one of my mom's cheese ball recipes.Jan's Tasty Cheese Ball1 stick butter, softened1 8-oz. cream cheese, softened1/4 cup finely chopped green olive1/4 cup finely chopped black olive1/4 cup canned dried onions1 cup shredded mild cheddarMix butter, cream cheese, olives and onions. Form into a Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com0

I am always on the hunt for a great mac and cheese recipe. To me it's the ultimate comfort food and I'm always up for a little comfort. This recipe comes from the Oct. 2009 Food Network Magazine. Not only is this one tasty, but it's also healthy. A 1 1/3 cup serving is only 403 calories! I added some browned turkey smoked sausage to mine, but here is the magazine recipe.Three-Cheese Macaroni1 Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com0

This recipe was in American Profile, a magazine that comes in a free weekly paper thrown in my neighborhood. I thought it sounded easy and am always looking for recipes that cook themselves! It's not bad for a crock pot meal and a cheap cut of meat. i would prepare this again and actually want to try it with a pork roast. I served it on toasted whole wheat buns.Slow Cooker Beef Barbecue1 (2 - to Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com0

This recipe has been around for awhile. My ex-wife used to bring it to family gatherings and it was always a hit. My mom still requests this one.White Corn Salad2 Tbsp. olive oil2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar1 tsp. brown sugar1/4 tsp. salt1/8 tsp. black pepper2 ( 11 oz.) cans white shoepeg corn, drained1 large tomato, seeded and chopped4 green onions, chopped1/2 green bell pepper, choppedIn a large Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com0

Here's another recipe for molasses cookies; as part of my quest to find the perfect one. A guy at work brought these in and I asked for the recipe since they were a little different than usual. They are good, but they are not as good as those wonderful ones from Murray's Ice Cream in Westport. Someday i will figure the recipe out though.... Marie's Molasses Cookies 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour1 Michael Tosattohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01002882743747087494noreply@blogger.com3

I have lived withing spitting distance of Mad Jack's for a few years but never had much desire to check it out. Yes, it looks a little seedy from the outside but God knows that has never stopped me before. Indeed I checked out a similar fish-oriented place across the intersection last year. People say good things about the Mad Jack's in KCK but I've never hear people say much of anything about the Troost outpost.



The place is setup like a fast food restaurant: menu on the wall, order and pay at the counter. The young woman at the register could not have been more friendly, she immediately greeted me when I came in (as she did every other visitor) and heartily recommended the day's lunch special. The "Po Jack" is basically a large catfish filet served on white bread with lettuce, tomato, onion and cheese at a cost of $5.99. As I ordered her father, who appears to be the owners was joking around and generally lightening the mood of the whole place. He also recommended the "peachy tea" to me which I found uncomfortably reminiscent of baby aspirin.

On to lunch. Curiously enough, the toppings for the Po Jack sandwich come on the side in a styrofoam box.



That little french fry bag contains the lettuce, tomato, onion and cheese. The condiments are simply packets of tarter sauce and mayonnaise. A little soufflé cup of hot sauce rounds out the meal. I found this kind of weird, I would much rather have them put the sandwich together for me but I dutifully plopped the toppings out and doused the sandwich with hot sauce.



It was looking good except for one thing: the American cheese was still in its individual plastic wrapping. I understand the desire to streamline restaurant workflow by pre-making these topping bags, but this was just a little too transparent. It was dumping the work squarely on to my shoulders. Plus the cheese didn't get the chance to deliciously melt over the catfish filet.

But the catfish is damn good. It was a nice, sizable portion of highly seasoned, cornmeal breaded fish. And much like barbecue, I found that I really preferred the white bread over the dense buns you see everywhere else. Fried fish with hot sauce is really a great combination. As a hater of mayonnaise and by extension, tarter sauce, I find that hot sauce cuts through the other flavors without making the breading soggy like lemon juice or vinegar tend to do.

I had ordered a little side of mac and cheese, but found it rather lackluster. I mean, I like it and it was only 89 cents, but it was only a step above easy mac.

The interior space is charmingly odd, with a corrugated metal wall behind the counter, three different menu boards, a mounted TV and a small DVD collection on a shelf. Also there are signs and flyers hung up everywhere. It feels like a heavily and amateurishly refurbished fast food restaurant, which is probably exactly what it is.






All in all, I would definitely go back and opt for one of the boxed fish meals which are just fried filets with bread, hot sauce and sides. I don't want to go through the sandwich assembly rigmarole again.

Here it is, the granddaddy of them all.


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It's been a while since I stopped by Kansas City's most illustrious BBQ joint for lunch. I have found Bryant's to be a little inconsistent which tempers my enthusiasm for their smoked meats. Sometimes they dish out a less than stellar meal, but when Bryant's is good, it's better than anyone else in town.

Unlike Oklahoma Joe's and Gates, the original Bryant's location has a natural ambience, one that hasn't been calculated and cultivated.



Plenty of celebrity photos hang crookedly from the south wall, which doesn't serve to class the place up so much as give folks something to look at while they wait in line. Yes, during lunch there is often a line to the door, but it moves quite quickly. The size of the lunch crowd pales in comparison to Oklahoma Joe's.

Like Joe's, Bryant's is destination barbecue for many, but still has the hallmarks of a neighborhood joint. It is close enough to downtown to attract business people and also situated close enough to light industry to attract a blue collar crowd. Just a stone's throw from 18th and Vine, it's a popular lunch spot to combine with a trip to the Jazz or Negro Leagues museums. As a result, Arthur Bryant's is perhaps the most racially integrated restaurant in Kansas City. At any given time, the restaurant is half-filled with people from out of town as well.



I have never particularly enjoyed the ordering experience at AB's. As the line moves to the front of the counter, you can pick up a plate and silverware. One of the hangdog gentlemen behind the window will take your order, and the plate as well if he feels like it. Sometimes he will decline the round plate in favor of a longer platter kept behind the counter. Lest you think it's ok to skip the plate, know that the employee may chastise you for not having one to give.



Nonetheless, the process works pretty well, despite theoccasional screw-up with your order . This is not nearly the problem that it is at Gates. The folks at the end of the counter will take your money and serve you drinks. Be sure to get plenty of beer for your whole meal because it's a hassle getting back up there again for more drinks.

Bring your appetite because the portions are huge. For $8.35, you can get a sandwich the size of Jesus. For $9.95 you can get some terrific fries with your sandwich. Unfortunately you may also get some disappointing fries; they are the most inconsistent item on the menu. Sometimes they are undercooked, sometimes cold, sometimes mind-blowingly perfect.

A "combo" costs $9.35, and allows you to sample two meats. This results in a larger order than normal since they basically add half a sandwich to a full size sandwich.





Order the beef, I think it's the best in town. It is quite smoky and considerably juicier than other versions. The ribs are a darn near perfect texture, not fatty and supremely flavorful. I'm not a huge fan of the pulled pork which they serve finely shredded and mixed with sauce. The burnt ends are roughly hacked and also mixed with sauce. I don't think they are the finest in town (LC's gets that distinction) but I wouldn't turn my back on them because the beef is just that good. Bryant's is one of the few places to offer sliced pork, which I have greatly enjoyed in the past. Not having eaten in recently, I recommend it with only the slightest hesitation.

Bryant's original sauce is perhaps the strangest barbecue sauce I have ever tasted, and many folks will tell you that they do not care for it. Absolutely bitter, thin and riddled with spices, it is certainly a surprise if you are expecting KC's typical sweet stuff. I find that the original sauce tastes best on ribs. Bryant's also offers "rich and spicy" and "sweet heat" varieties which are both great.

Arthur Bryant's was the first restaurant I visited in Kansas City. I was expecting a tourist trap, and instead found an honest, humble gem of a place, deserving of all the accolades it has received. This place is proof that tourist attractions are darn near impossible to manufacture. Readers of this blog occasionally ask me what my favorite barbecue restaurant in KC is, and I usually have a diplomatic response along the lines of "well, it depends." But now, I can comfortably and whole-heartedly endorse Bryant's as my favorite of them all. While not without its problems, their meats are just head and shoulders above the rest.